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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.